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Laos - introduction
Despite being just one hour by air from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, life in Laos has continued in much the same way it has for hundreds of years, although things are now slowly beginning to change. In the mid-90s the government reversed its stance on tourism, and then declared 1998 "Visit Laos Year" - but despite their efforts and all Laos has to offer, monks still outnumbered tourists throughout the country. This is now rapidly changing, with tourist numbers rising every year. Indeed, Vientiane is a laid-back, yet charmingly cosmopolitan village.
Those visitors who are drawn by the laid-back lifestyle and the opportunity to knock back a few cold Beer Laos while watching the sunsets on the Mekong will simply explain the attraction by revealing that the true meaning of "Lao PDR" is Lao - Please Don't Rush.
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History
Laos is squeezed between vastly larger neighbours. First created as an entity in 1353, when warlord Fa Ngum declared himself the king of Lane Xang ("Million Elephants"), the kingdom was initially a Khmer vassal state. After a succession dispute, the kingdom split in three in 1694 and was eventually devoured piece by piece by the Siamese, the last fragments agreeing to Siamese protection in 1885.
In 1975, after the fall of Saigon, the Communist Pathet Lao took control of Vientiane and ended a six-century-old monarchy. Initial closer ties to Vietnam and socialization were replaced with a gradual return to private enterprise, an easing of foreign investment laws, and admission into ASEAN in 1997.
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Cities
Vientiane - the still sleepy capital on the banks of the Mekong River
Huay Xai - in the north, on the Mekong and the border with Thailand
Luang Prabang - a UNESCO World Heritage City known for its numerous temples, colonial era architecture, and vibrant night market.
Vang Vieng - Las Vegas of Laos. Enjoy repeated episodes of The Simpsons and Friends.
Luang Namtha - capital of the north, known for its trekking.
Muang Xay - also known as Oudomxay, the capital of the multiethnic province of Oudomxay.
Pakbeng - halfway point on the overnight slow boat between Huay Xai & Luang Prabang
Pakse - gateway to the Wat Phu ruins and the "four thousand islands" (Si Phan Don)
Savannakhet - in the south, on the Mekong, connected by bridge to Mukdahan, Thailand
Tha Khaek - south of Vientiane on the banks of the Mekong, Tha Khaek is a popular base for exploring the Phou Hin Boun National Park including the famous Konglor Cave
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Weather
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Laos has three distinct seasons. The hot season is from March to May, when temperatures can soar as high as 40°C. The slightly cooler wet season is from May to October, when temperatures are around 30°C, tropical downpours are frequent, and some years the Mekong floods.
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The dry season from November to March, which has low rainfall and temperatures as low as 15°C (or even to zero in the mountains at night), is "high season" (when the most tourists are in the country). However, towards the end of the dry season, the northern parts of Laos — basically everything north of Luang Prabang — can become very hazy due to farmers burning fields and fires in the forests. |
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To do
Climb Mount Phousi
Ascend Mount Phousi for a panoramic view of Luang Prabang and the surrounding rivers and hills.
Swimming
Swim in the lower pools of the Kuang Si Waterfalls, situated 30km (19 miles) from Luang Prabang, and bathe in the two hot springs some 52km (32 miles) north of Phonsavan: Bo Noi and Bo Yai.
Wildlife
For a special experience stay in a tree house in Bokeo Nature Reserve, near Houayxai, and travel through the forest canopy on zip wires looking for Black Gibbons.
Trekking
Head to the hills and trek independently or as part of a locally organised tour. A number of guest houses offer hiking trips starting from Muang Xing, a small town on the river plains in the mountainous Luang Namtha province in the far northwest.
Tubing
Lazily float along the Nam Song River in a rubber tube in Vang Vieng. The scenery is stunning and enterprising locals will tow the thirsty in to riverside bars for Beer Lao. Many of the bars have zip lines and water slides.
Boloven Plateau
Head to the Boloven Plateau in Champassak province for elephant riding and trekking. Pakse, home to many ethnic minority groups, is the region's capital and the ideal base from which to explore the plateau.
Ride an elephant
Trek through the jungle on the back of an elephant to Tad Sae waterfall near Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang
Visit Laos' cultural and religious centre, Luang Prabang. This ancient royal city has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995. Located between the Mekong and Khan River, it boasts 33 large temple complexes and around 1,000 resident monks.
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Map

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Photo gallery
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